Manuel Antonio to San Gerado de Dota
Before we begin today, a quick recap on what we've learned about the area, thanks to our knowledgeable guide, Mega:
Quepos was a working town of the Untied Fruit Company who came and built the banana empire which spread across Central America - a long and sordid history of exploitation and corruption along with it. They tore up the mangrove systems and built a town for the workers which actually sits below sea level. Flooding hasn't been a major issue yet...
​They likewise tore up a lot of land to plant their bananas all around the area. The banana business flopped on the back of a fungus which wiped them out here (better growing conditions are the Carribean side of the country). This land was replaced with palm ​plantations run by Palma Tica.
The negative connotations of the palm oil industry are many and valid, but to be fair to this particular instance, no habitat was destroyed for it and by all accounts Palma Tica look after the environment as best they can and the workers as well. They are provided housing and taught English in the hopes they may be able to upksill and work in the more lucrative tourism industry.
Enough of the history, it's time to explore this massive network of estuaries around Isla Damas.
We drive down to the place this morning with our bags packed so we can make a clean get away to San Gerado de Dota after the tour.
A coffee and some fruit is provided for some energy and we are soon in the kayak and in the water. Courts is riding up front on animal spotting and filming duty while Jeff paddles.
We haven't gone far before we see some wildlife, mainly birds, crabs and lizards as Mega explains how the mangroves work to filter the water and protect the area in times of wild weather and high tides etc.
We then see a capuchin foraging at the edge of the water. Soon after that a raccoon.
The paddling is easy and the area is quiet. It's very peaceful at this time of the morning and not too hot in the shade. Mega says he loves his office here. He lasted literally only 5 minutes when he was offered to do some admin work on the real office of the tour company. Just like Diego yesterday, not for him. He wants to be in nature.
We take a few narrow pathways through the mangroves; the tide has risen enough, just. We head back and spot a blue heron which was probably the pick. Beautiful!
A traditional gallo pinto awaits us at the base and it's one of the better ones we've had. We're the only 2 on the tour. Impressive that they still put on all the bells and whistles. It's a long 3 months through the off-season here, so they need to make sure they save money when the going is good in the peak, and take whatever customers they can in the off.
We say our goodbyes and hit the road. The first hour is following the Pacific coast going South, through the palm plantation and small worker towns (always with a soccer pitch in good order). We also pass a road-kill sloth which was very sad to see.
We hang a right and instantly start our climb into the mountains again. Before long we stop off for a quick take away coffee and a quick look at the view (and a pat of the cats).
The roads are in good order but extremely windy as we keep climbing. It makes passing slow trucks a bit hairy (and likewise we are praying for those who are passing us on blind corners!). The trucks are very courteous on the roads. Always indicating when it's safe to pass and to be fair all other road users are pretty good. We like the use of hazard lights to draw attention to when something odd is happening in front, or if they are trying to let you know they are about to stop/pull-over. It helps a lot!
We have a lunch at what is effectively a truck/bus stop. The food is standard traditional fare and pretty good.
The final leg is down a steep windy road for about 20 minutes. Same story as always with these roads, very tricky going as there are pot holes everywhere and it's pretty much only one car wide. We head past a few nice looking accommodations but also spot the San Gerado school and church. Interesting that there is an actual community down this steep, windy road.
We arrive at our place as it's starting to rain (like clockwork) and it is one of the fanciest places we've ever stayed in. We check in and as usual we're straight back out the door and hiking up one of the trails that are on the property.
Thunder is in the distance, but we chance one of the loops that looks good. It's soggy underfoot, to say the least, but it's an incredible 1.7km loop. The primary forest is wild and it's a steep drop on one side. It's about 330pm but during parts of the hike it feels like 6pm it's so dark. We are rewarded with a view of the valley at the end and we get the full cloud forest vibe.
Its a steep walk down a 4x4 track home. Into the spa (told you it was fancy) and some relaxation before dinner.
They have a trout farm on the premises so Jeff gets a trout burger. Courts gets chicken ravioli (they also have a chicken farm in San Gerardo).
We overhear a table of Australians (first we've encountered) talking about the road being closed tomorrow morning for road works. This is extremely lucky. Remember it's one steep road in and out of this place and we've got a plane to catch tomorrow! We move the car up the road a bit so we can make another clean getaway and then head to bed.
